frances
lai
LAST DAY OF CARNEVALE
February 17
WANDERING. This is the key mode of transport in Venice. Perhaps at times you simply place one foot in front of another, allowing your legs to take you wherever it is that they will go, or perhaps you are confronted with dead ends in pursuit of a sensible way to arrive at your destination. Wherever you intend to go in Venice, if indeed you have any such intentions, you are sure to get there by wandering.
This is the primary reason your beloved blogger advises against too strict a timetable while visiting the floating city. Not only can you expect your trajectory to take longer than you had planned when attempting a route for the first time, but the pressure of having to be in a certain place at a certain hour will rob you of taking the time to enjoy the picturesque that surrounds you, which is arguably the best part.
Encrusted arthropods accompanied by their slimy, mossy entourage line the water’s edge at each masonry surface while phantom steps descend into a watery bed of kelpine fingers, untiring in their reach for the sea. These nether spaces where water and manmade foundation make contact render the only encounters to be found with unhindered nature.
But no one comes to Venice seeking a nature retreat; as is the case with many European destinations dating back to the Middle Ages, or even before to the Roman Empire, this is a site built on the cultivation of centuries of human enterprise. Smaller boats border the channels, lying still as the water on which they rest. Buildings amass in a hodgepodge of dimensions, styles and degrees of gradual blight, brought on by age and proximity to the corrosive saltwater. The pigmentation of their exteriors, discoloring to muted shades with stained patches or exposed brick, allude to a former glory that today has aged into a charming splendor.
Here you will find alike neither canals nor bridges, not even buildings or doors. Terrible cliché of a to remark that Venice and the other islands of the lagoon are unlike anywhere else on earth, but even the urban components that exist everywhere are found here bursting with character and distinction.
Venice is a locality that stuns the sense of sight at paramount amplitude. Especially with the absence of car horns, the clamor of brutish individuals or roaring motors, save the mellow hum of vessels on the main waterway, the visual acuity of the city is thus refined. Riding a vaporetto down the Grand Canal offers the opportunity of stepping into a painting, and it’s no wonder how the likes of artists from Canaletto to Turner were so inspired to touch paintbrush to canvas. It’s astounding to think that things here look much the same as they did hundreds of years ago.
Here we are on the last day of Carnevale, or whatever the predilection, based on language or intents of the day, drives you to call it. And I struggle to find something redeeming to write about the festivities. Suffice to say that Venice Carnevale is unlike any other celebration of its kind in the world. Imagine all the turbulence and jubilant debauchery commonly associated with Rio Carnival, Mardi Gras in New Orleans or Notting Hill Carnival. Venice Carnevale is the complete opposite. It’s a very calm, regal, civilized affair, and while the occasion yields nightlife with more pulse than otherwise in the city, don’t expect too much rowdiness. Of course, if you're inclined to fork over 500+ EUR for entry to a masquerade, your opinion is likely to differ.
All of which suited me just fine. As much fun as I have during Notting Hill Carnival, sometimes the mere thought of it induces a hangover.
Prompted to head back to our quieter corner of Venice, we held back for a bit of prosecco and some take-away pasta that we’d heard so much about. This fast food pasta joint was the only thing that made braving Piazza San Marco during Carnevale worth it. Very generously portioned and fully customizable with choice of pasta, sauce, and add-ins, the quality and freshness alone are worth paying double for in a dine-in establishment. Kyle was thoroughly pleased indeed, proclaiming it the best meal he’d had in Venice, his first since the debilitating bout of food poisoning.
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A fantastic treasure trove of a bookstore is Libreria Acqua Alta, where new and used books on nearly every topic in nearly every language are sold. It’s a fun location to peruse the day away with a book-filled gondola dominating the main chamber. It’s extremely popular and usually
We finally headed to Piazza San Marco to really get a feel for Carnevale. I lasted there for all of twenty minutes. The throngs of people in the narrow streets began long before we reached the piazza, and already I was tempted to abort. Properly attired in my little masked number, I felt a bit shortchanged to see most people in the square without even a mask. There were only a handful of promenaders in full ensemble, and it was nearly impossible to grab a perfect shot due to the hoards of unaware, mindless tourists getting in the way. The contest for best masked was a bit of a joke and featured a Pikachu onesie.
crowded, but a great place for those of you like me who collect secondhand texts from all the places you’ve been. There are also plenty of other little bookshops in the immediate area if you’re looking for an atmosphere a little more intimate to browse.
With the last firework display later that evening, we spent the rest of the day ricocheting from here to there, attempting to stay warm with the aid of various potations, hot, cold and one a virgin.
Reaching the Arsenale di Venezia was no easy feat, and this we knew from failing to get there in time the night before. Allowing plenty of time to arrive, the path we trekked was a convoluted course that involved traversing a gangway on the side of a building over water at one point. The nighttime sea breeze whispered icy incursions to us poor masqueraders throughout the journey.
The lightshow and firework spectacular was a valiant effort. It would have been magnificent if we had never seen anything of the like orchestrated by the Walt Disney Company. Apologies, but it’s true. The show sampled the Pirates of the Caribbean score at length, which was amusing but in entirely the wrong way.
So the final say on Carnevale? Ehh. As fun as it is to dress up and masquerade, not everyone really gets into the spirit. The area around Piazza San Marco is a suffocating warzone of obtuse rubberneckers, and it’s just a bit too cold for comfort, considering the fact that we spent most of the day gallivanting outdoors in non-heat-conserving getups. Do everything in your capacity to come to Venice one day, but if I were to do it again, I’d go in the spring when it’s warm and before the start of peak season when the stench begins to emanate from the stagnant water.
Tune in next time for my final Venetian post and the lasting impressions of this wondrous city that I will take with me.
THE DEETS
Lunch
Dal Moro’s, Calle de La Casseleria 5324, 30122 Venezia. Expect a massive queue! Very affordable.
Bookshop
Libreria Acqua Alta, Sestiere Castello 5167, Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa, 30122 Venezia.
