frances
lai
blown a
wayfarer
SEAFARING IN DUBROVNIK
September 17
The idea of hiring a boat to explore the Dalmatian coastline was one of the key prospects that drew me to Croatia. But in truth, I wasn’t sure that it’d be possible without a license and proper certification. I figured of all the localities along the Mediterranean, an eastern European country would be likely to have the laxest laws concerning maritime regulation.
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Of course, I was absolutely wrong and even feel a bit stupid now for thinking such a thing. I don’t know why it didn’t occur to me that Croatia would have some of the more rigorous regulations with so much traffic from ferries, yachts, and other chartered or private vessels. That being said, we were still able to rent our own private boat, granted it was a tiny 5-meter boat that only just fit the two of us comfortably (a single seafarer more would have been pretty cramped) with a 5-hp engine. So, small and slow is all you’ll be able to get your hands on without documentation, but to be honest, the freedom to dictate your own voyage and navigate the crystalline blue waters of the Adriatic is enough to make you feel like commander of a fleet.
We rented our boat from Adventure Dubrovnik, who, as the name suggests, offers other tours and excursions as well. The harbor where all the rentals are docked is in Cavtat, about a thirty or forty minute bus ride south of Dubrovnik. For little more than £60, we were able to rent the boat fitted with a sunshade, snorkeling gear, life vests, and a local cell phone for emergencies. The girl who handled our rental was the sweetest soul: she let us keep the boat out as long as we wanted and even threw in a cooler free of charge! Plus, she was super knowledgeable and informative, an all-around really cool gal.
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And once we were free of the harbor, it seemed as though the whole world was open to us! Despite having to hurdle over even the most minute of wakes, it was a truly ineffable exhilaration.
We eventually made our way around each of the surrounding islands, and Bobara, the closest to the harbor, was our first destination. Unfortunately for those who require a beach to enjoy the sun, Bobara has only a sliver of shore compared to its immense cliffs that border the island on the waterfront. This narrow beach was occupied when we sailed past, so we cruised around to another side and found a dingy little dock. It seemed fitting to tie up and crack open the first bottle of rosé, enjoying it as we sat atop a few ruins. Running amuck about the island, we came across a closed up restaurant with a dodgy roof terrace where we were able to properly recycle the empty bottle. Fortunately, it was the off-season and even though the restaurant wasn’t open, we rarely came across another soul during our exploration of the islands.
When the midday sun began to bear down on us, we opted to drop anchor offshore at a location recommended as an optimal spot for snorkeling. The underwater views were absolutely splendid, and we even found a tiny rock island and took turns having our picture taken on it. But the water was quite choppy and many of the rocks came close to the surface, making it a tricky area to sail. We attempted to explore a cave, but the rocks were so jagged that I got pretty cut up after being thrown against them over and over. Since the waves showed no sign of letting up, we decided to move on.
Mrkan, the biggest of the three, is easily my favorite. Even though the restaurant on this island remained open, there was only a feeble flux of other tourists arriving in groups on water taxis. Feeling a bit famished, we found a vast expanse of flat white rock and laid out our picnic provisions. Though I regard myself as a professional picnicker, eating and drinking on a rock bed mere meters away from the inviting blue sea was quite a singular experience.
After lunch, we wandered around the island and happened across a few fortuitous finds. Behind the restaurant is a recreational space equipped with a soccer pitch and, more importantly for our sleepy needs, some lawn chairs and a hammock. Waking up from my siesta to find Kyle still knocked out, I ventured out on my own to see what else the island had to offer. To my immense delight, I found a few shallow pools created by outcroppings of rock along the shore. The pools had a depth of about one to two feet, and the coastal algae blanketing the rocks made me feel like a mermaid lying in her seabed. The best part was the near bathwater temperature of the water compared to the ocean, the effect of the sun heating smaller bodies of water more effectively. Every now and then a wave would breach the rock wall and inject the pool with a fresh flow of seawater.
We never stepped foot on Supetar, serving instead as a point we sailed around and admired from the boat. Our sailing day was definitely the highlight of our trip to Croatia, and I would implore anyone who finds himself in this magnificent country to put aside one day for the excursion. In addition to the valuable learning experience (we had to get schooled on how to properly dock a boat), viewing the sunset over the Mediterranean will forever adorn the hall of my memories.
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THE DEETS
Boat rental
Adventure Dubrovnik, Sv. Križa 3, Dubrovnik 20000. +385 98-531-516, http://www.adventuredubrovnik.com. Reservation made with one of the many staff members in orange T-shirts posted around the Old City. Detailed directions to the harbor given when reservation made. Payment taken day of rental. 650 HRK all day rental, complete with cooler, snorkel gear, and waterproof bag.
