frances
lai
blown a
wayfarer
BEBEK AND BALIK PAZARI
July 9
The two-hour time difference was especially palpable the morning after our arrival in Turkey. Whether it was due to the residual effects of a feeble jetlag or one too many shots to commemorate Germany’s victory the previous night, neither of us could say. Although brunch was set modestly at noon, the café was located in Bebek, an area not particularly well connected via public transport, and so it was deemed sensible to allow ourselves more time to get there. Eager to take advantage of the magnificent weather and seascape, I was delighted when Google Maps pinpointed Mangerie right on the coast.
The Istanbul metro is not nearly as expansive as such a large city would require, and there is indeed a learning curve regarding its use. Aside from a sorrowful lack of maps displayed before paid entrance into the network, the most ludicrous part of the system is the different ticketing schemes for the metro and Marmaray line, despite the identical fares. Of course, these grievances stem from several years of living in London, where the public transportation is streamlined and comprehensive. I did get a kick out of our local metro station’s resemblance to a Star Wars hangar, however.
Having taken the metro to Levent, for which there are two stops, confusingly, we were still in need of a taxi. Based on the handful of rides we took in Istanbul, it became increasingly clear that tourists are served on a golden platter every time they hail a cab. Eventually we developed a procedure for dealing with cabbies, which simply involved whipping out the GPS on an iPhone to show our current location and desired destination. This maneuver allowed us to sidestep having to pronounce the name in a foreign accent and made the driver aware that we were tracking the journey. It wasn’t failproof, however; we were still taken on a wild ride once by a cabbie who feigned no knowledge of English or basic map reading, and so we jumped ship.
Driving through Bebek offered us a glimpse of what seemed like a very posh borough of Istanbul—no dilapidated buildings here. Instead, the hilly streets were lined with beautiful, palatial villas, cute boutiques and cafés, or even large centers for shopping and health services. My friends chose a restaurant that was difficult to find, but I knew I could trust in their decision with every staircase that we ascended to the rooftop terrace.
The deck offered magnificent views of the bay sheltered by the last remaining green spaces in Istanbul, but no view could compare to the sight of Bala and Ipek, two schoolmates of mine whom I haven’t seen in at least a year. It’s always comforting to see familiar faces in an unknown environment. My smoked salmon brunch and white wine sangria steeped in engaging conversation was a delightful way to open our sojourn in Turkey.
After brunch, Kyle and I decided to avert the rising temperatures by retreating indoors to take a nap, as locals do. Though our room wasn’t equipped with air conditioning, the high-powered fan was more than a satisfactory substitute.
Rising from our deep midday slumber, we dashed to the looming green gates of Galatasaray Lisesi, referred to as a well-established high school, but it actually includes grades of all levels, including university. Here we met with Oguz, a tall, enthusiastic man who was the friendly guide of our culinary escapades, as well as the rest of the day’s cooking class participants. The group was a healthy multinational mix, but all the Americans had a common factor of California.
Oguz led the way with an introductory tour of Balık Pazarı, the fish market with which Kyle and I had already become familiar. It’s times like these when I’m truly in need of a walking companion, someone I can hold on to in order to avoid running into other people or things while my eyes dance in all directions with everything there is to see. Oguz imbued the walking tour with interesting facts, historical insight, amusing anecdotes, and welcomed tips of what to eat and where to supplement my extensive research of Turkish cuisine.
Balık Pazarı is paved on either side with specialty shops overflowing with goods and the occasional food stand in between, the larger eat-in establishments with ample outdoor seating capping the crossroads. The stunted pedestrian street easily absorbs time, with logs of lokum displayed behind glass, tulip tea sets, rows of spices, drippingly fresh honey combs, dried vegetables hanging overhead, jars of pickled whatever-you-fancy, and metal Ottoman coffee sets all begging closer scrutiny, much like a Turkish Diagon Alley. The most fascinating shops were the ones Oguz pointed out as modern-day apothecaries where herbal remedies are concocted, customized to each differing ailment. Temptations brought on by midye dolma, or rice-stuffed mussels, midye tava, which are deep-fried mussels served with a tarator sauce of yogurt and garlic, or even kokoreç, roasted lamb intestines, made me excited for the next time I’d be hungry. All along our stroll, Oguz bought fresh produce and ingredients from the market to use during the evening’s class.
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After equipping ourselves with beer and wine for the cooking session and following dinner, the group finally arrived to the classroom, a spacious apartment fitted simply with a kitchen, bathroom, and large table. The evening’s menu was a selection of Turkish staples that also suited the sweltering heat: humus, kısır (bulgur wheat salad), közde patlıcan (roasted eggplant dip), peynirli sigara böreÄŸi (cheese and parsley wrapped in filo dough), and irmik helvası made of semolina for dessert. Oguz was a wonderfully entertaining host, very knowledgeable and well traveled, and I definitely picked up some handy cooking tips. The group enjoyed each other’s company so much that we ended up heading to a pub on Nevizade Sokak with Oguz to catch the last semi-final.
I’ve found that taking a cooking class while visiting a foreign country is an incredibly worthwhile experience. Obviously, you have the opportunity to learn more about the local food and culinary history in a fun and engaging way. Not only does it place you in a perfect position to pick a local’s brains about food and restaurant recommendations, but you’re also offered a lively social atmosphere with other visitors, and sometimes it’s just nice to interact with the same people over a longer period of time. I would definitely recommend such an activity if time and money can be afforded.
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THE DEETS
Brunch
Mangerie, Bebek Mh., Cevdet PaÅŸa Cd No: 69, 34342 Istanbul, Turkey. Very easy to miss as the only signage is only visible halfway up the first flight of stairs. Everyone in the vicinity knew exactly what we were talking about and was able to point us in the right direction. Moderately priced.
Cooking class
Istanbul Cooking School, www.istanbulcookingschool.com. Email info@istanbulcookingschool.com directly for bookings. 145 TL pp. Cash only, but also payable in USD and EUR. Meeting point at the gates of Galatasaray Lisesi.